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Journal · Field Notes from Tanzania

The Journal

Guide dispatches, travel essays, and practical advice from the bush and the coast.

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From the Field

The Journal

Guide dispatches, travel essays, and practical advice from the bush and the coast.

Long-form writing about Tanzania — by our guides, our staff, and occasionally by guests who've written something we want to share.

Practical advice, essays, species deep-dives. Updated monthly.

By Topic

What's Covered

Thirty posts across four broad areas. Browse by topic or scroll the full list below.

— 01
Migration & Wildlife

Deep-dives on the Great Migration, calving season, elephant behaviour, cheetah vs leopard tracking, baobab trees. Our guides' favourite subjects.

Species & seasons
— 02
Kilimanjaro

Route selection, success rates, packing specifics, altitude strategy. Everything we tell climbers before they fly to Tanzania.

Mountain
— 03
Zanzibar & Coast

Best beaches, best hotels, best food, best time. The coastal side of Tanzania — often the highlight of a bush-and-beach combo.

Islands
— 04
Practical Advice

Packing, tipping, malaria, insurance, visas. The unsexy but critical posts that save travellers headaches.

How-to
All Posts

From the Field

30 dispatches covering safari, Kilimanjaro, Zanzibar, conservation, and travel practicalities.

Practical · Packing Guide
Practical · Packing Guide

What to Pack for a Tanzania Safari

A packing list, honest and unsponsored. What you need, what you don't, and where the ideal middle ground is. Revised for the 2026 season.

Feb 2026 Read →
Mountain · Kilimanjaro
Mountain · Kilimanjaro

5 Things That Determine Your Kilimanjaro Success

65% of climbers summit Kilimanjaro. 35% turn back. The difference isn't fitness — it's five specific decisions, made before you ever arrive at the gate.

Feb 2026 Read →
Travel · Solo
Travel · Solo

Safari as a Solo Female Traveller

Is Tanzania safe for solo women? Yes, and this is a quick guide on the realities of solo safari travel here — from a Tanzanian woman's perspective.

Jan 2026 Read →
Field Notes · Migration
Field Notes · Migration

The Calving Season in Ndutu

500,000 wildebeest calves drop in three weeks. Lions, cheetahs, hyena, and the largest concentration of predator activity on Earth. Why January–February is the quiet superstar of the safari calendar.

Jan 2026 Read →
Mountain · Kilimanjaro
Mountain · Kilimanjaro

Which Kilimanjaro Route Should You Take?

Seven routes. Different success rates, different scenery, different costs. A frank comparison of Lemosho, Machame, Marangu, Rongai, Northern Circuit, Umbwe, and Shira — with our honest recommendations.

Dec 2025 Read →
Practical · Tipping
Practical · Tipping

The Tipping Guide for Tanzania Safaris

How much to tip your guide, your camp staff, your Kilimanjaro porter team, and your beach hotel butler. In USD, with specific ranges and context.

Dec 2025 Read →
Coast · Zanzibar
Coast · Zanzibar

The Best Time for Zanzibar

Avoid April and May. Everything else works. Here's how Zanzibar's climate actually plays month to month.

Nov 2025 Read →
Photography · Gear
Photography · Gear

Camera Gear for a Safari

What lenses, what body, what accessories. And what you don't need despite what YouTube tells you. Specific recommendations for budget, mid-range, and professional kit.

Nov 2025 Read →
Practical · First Time
Practical · First Time

5 Mistakes First-Time Safari Travellers Make

The five patterns we see again and again. Each is easy to avoid if you know about them.

Oct 2025 Read →
Practical · Vehicle
Practical · Vehicle

Why Private Vehicle Safaris Are Worth It

The price difference between a shared vehicle and a private one is real. The experience difference is bigger. A cost-benefit breakdown.

Oct 2025 Read →
Conservation · Big Five
Conservation · Big Five

The Ethics of the Big Five

Checklist tourism has real conservation costs. How to enjoy the wildlife without contributing to the problems. Thoughts from fifteen years in the field.

Sep 2025 Read →
Culture · Maasai
Culture · Maasai

How to Visit a Maasai Boma Ethically

Many Maasai village visits are staged — community theatre. The good ones aren't. Here's how to tell the difference and where the ethical operators go.

Sep 2025 Read →
Comparison · East Africa
Comparison · East Africa

Serengeti vs Masai Mara — Which Should You Choose?

Same ecosystem, two countries, two different experiences. A frank comparison from a Tanzanian-based guide.

Aug 2025 Read →
Species · Elephant
Species · Elephant

Elephant Behaviour in Tarangire

What the herd dynamics actually look like — the matriarch system, allomothering, male coalition behaviour — observed over a dry-season week in Tarangire.

Aug 2025 Read →
Species · Cats
Species · Cats

Cheetah vs Leopard — Tracking Tips

Different cats, different habitats, different tracking strategies. How our senior guides find them.

Jul 2025 Read →
Flora · Baobab
Flora · Baobab

The Baobab — Tanzania's Oldest Resident

Some baobabs in Tarangire are 2,000 years old. They store 120,000 litres of water. They're not really trees, botanically. A love letter.

Jul 2025 Read →
Coast · Food
Coast · Food

A Food Guide to Zanzibar

From Forodhani night market to the spice farms to the fish auctions of Nungwi. What to order and where.

Jun 2025 Read →
Photography · Ethics
Photography · Ethics

The Ethics of Wildlife Photography

Off-road driving for the shot. Calling out lions. Baiting. The pressures photography exerts on wild animals — and where the lines should be.

Jun 2025 Read →
Conservation · Finance
Conservation · Finance

What Your Conservation Fee Actually Pays For

Park fees, concession fees, community levies, government taxes. Where a safari dollar goes — broken down clearly.

May 2025 Read →
Town · Arusha
Town · Arusha

The Best Arusha Hotels for Your First Night

Arusha is your base before any northern safari. Five hotels across the price range that we actually put clients in.

May 2025 Read →
Practical · Health
Practical · Health

Staying Healthy on Safari

Water, sun, malaria, altitude, food. The five things to get right. Our standard pre-trip briefing for every guest.

Apr 2025 Read →
Family · Age
Family · Age

The Right Age to Take Kids on Safari

Six? Eight? Ten? When is a child genuinely ready for safari? And what changes at each age.

Apr 2025 Read →
Field · Sundowners
Field · Sundowners

Five Best Sundowner Spots in Tanzania

A sundowner at the right spot is one of the defining moments of a safari. Our five favourites, by park.

Mar 2025 Read →
Field · Night Drives
Field · Night Drives

Where Can You Do a Night Drive?

National parks prohibit night drives; private concessions allow them. Here's where the night game viewing is actually spectacular.

Mar 2025 Read →
Gear · Binoculars
Gear · Binoculars

The Best Binoculars for Safari

If you bring one thing, make it binoculars. Here's what to buy, from $150 to $2,500 — and why cheap optics ruin safaris.

Feb 2025 Read →
Health · Malaria
Health · Malaria

Malaria on Safari — The Realistic Risk

The hysteria, the reality, and the sensible precautions. A frank read of the malaria risk on Tanzania safaris in 2026.

Feb 2025 Read →
Planning · Visa
Planning · Visa

Tanzania Visa Guide 2026

Visa on arrival, e-Visa, multi-entry. Which to get and how. Updated for 2026 pricing and process.

Jan 2025 Read →
Mountain · Packing
Mountain · Packing

Packing for Kilimanjaro

Layers, boots, batteries, and the single most-forgotten essential. Our guide-approved Kilimanjaro packing list.

Jan 2025 Read →
Destinations · Underrated
Destinations · Underrated

5 Underrated Tanzania Parks

Everyone does Serengeti and Ngorongoro. These five parks are what we recommend for travellers on their second Tanzania trip.

Dec 2024 Read →
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